Kobayashi Lab

小林ラボ began as a sister restaurant to the well-known 小林食堂 in Gotanda. True to its name, it is a small counter restaurant where the cooking leaves room to experiment with unexpected ingredient combinations and inventive techniques. With around seven counter seats, the space feels informal and intimate. It is easy to settle in alone, with the quiet activity of the kitchen nearby as you focus on the meal.

At lunch, the format centres on a choice of two starters, one main and a drink after the meal. The starters bring Japanese seasonings and bright acidity to dishes with a Western feel: salmon and mushrooms tossed with crunchy shibazuke pickles, for instance, or smoked chicken paired with a tartare-style sauce made using seasoned simmered egg. Other plates pair fresh-fish carpaccio with vinegar jelly or fold the tartness of fruit and aromatic vegetables into meat dishes, creating subtle shifts in flavour right from the opening courses.

For mains, the lineup evolves with the season and regular menu updates, featuring pasta paired with shiso and tomato, seasoned rice infused with the savoury depth of clams and pork, cutlet-style preparations, and a varied selection of other meat and fish dishes. The shift from starters to mains changes the tone of the meal without making it feel overly heavy, leaving room to appreciate the ideas behind each plate.

The restaurant also operates as a wine bar, with a wide selection of wines. Taking time over a glass chosen to suit the food is part of the appeal. Desserts include a chocolate parfait with enough sweetness and structure to feel satisfying to the last spoonful, as well as a slightly firm pudding à la mode with a nostalgic note, rounding out the meal through to its finish.